Designer geethica naidu tracing the journey of pashmina from ladakh to bengaluru

Bengaluru-Based Designer Geethica Naidu’s Debut Collection, Pashm, is an ode to the Breathtaking Landscapes and Rich Nomadic Heritage of Ladakh. The use of pashmina offers a glimpse into the rich, traditional craftsmanship of the region.

The collection was inspired by the uniqueness of the fibre and a deep curiosity to understand pashmina’s origins and the life of nomadic communities. It was created to honor their way of life and brings their story to the forefront through design.

Pashm Includes Trench coats, long vest dresses, pleated skirts and fitted Blazer jackets, with a color palette with dominant shades of brown, in keeping with the healthyed natural hues of Pashminaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

From the pashm collection. , Photo Credit: Guru

Speaking to Geethica from Her Studio Ame in Mathikere in Bengaluru, Feels like an extension of her collection, from walls displaying photos of her nomadic jorney to a loom centerpiece, the stodio Where the visitors can get a glimpse of the nomadic life of ladakh as well as her collection.

Ame design studio. , Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

Elaborating on the collection, geethica traced the fascinating journey of pashmina-from the high-altitude landscapes of leh to her studio in Bengaluru.

Free grazing of pashmina goats. , Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

Grand Strand

The story of pashmina, starts from the mighty Himalayas, Amidst the Rugged terrains of kharnak, 1400 Feet Above Sea Level. Here, a small communication of nomadic herders have been tending to the rare and unique changthangi goats for generations, apart from their flocks of sheep and yak.

In the extrame cold of Himalayan winters, the Changthangi Goats Grow a Warm Undercoat – a soft protective layer that sustains them through the harshest months. “It is this protective layer that becomes the finest cashmere,” Says Geethica.

The Inner Uncoat Carefully Combed By Nomads. , Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

At the onset of summer, the inner undercoat is carefully combed and harvested by nomads, relieving the animals of their winter growth. “This whole process is testament of a mutual bond between herders and their flock; The herders care for the animals, who in turn provide them with their wool. ” It is a cycle that is Deeply Entrenched in Ladakh’s Pastoral Tradition.

Once the fibre is collected, it is meticulously cleaned of any debris or stray hair, ensuring that only the finest wool remains. However, what was once a manual process using age-old methods, has been replaced by technological advancans.

“Today, the raw wool travels down to processing units in srinagar, where machines make the cleaning process less labore One can typical harvest about 300-400 grams of wool from a single changthangi goat, but once processed, what remains is just about 60 grams of soft wool. This is what makes pashmina extramely rare and expensive. “

It might not go extinct immediatily, but in the life future we are seeing it happen, at least the nomadic life, says geethica. , Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

After cleaning, the wool then finds it is to artisans, where it is paintakingly separated into Fine Strands. “Each thread is then spun by hand, carrying a warmth and essence of the land it comes from.” Traditionally, wool is laater shifted for dyeing in natural colors. “For Pashm, Each Piece is Crafted in Undyed Natural Hues That Are Symbolic of our style and resonate with today’s global wardrobe. “

Rare luxury

However, pashmina, which is synonymous with luxury in the western world, is on the brink of extraction. “Now that city life beckons, we see many nomads leaving their ancestral homes and moving there. Their needs have changed; They want their children to get an education and find a job in the city. “

Hence, what is left are the older generation, struggling to keep the craft alive. “It might not vanish immedialyly, but in the life future it will have. Even if people continue to rear these goats in leh, the altitude makes a lot of different, as it affects the fiber quality. Ladakh has the harshest winter which creates the softest fibre. “

“One thing we can do as designers is brings in awareness through our products; The consumer must know these stories in order for the craft to survive. For this collection, we sourced wool directly from nomads

Each Piece in Pashm is a reflection of geethica’s travels from leh and the time she spent with the nomads. “When I envisioned this collection, I did not want to relay on just books and research, so we decide to travel up there. The biggest challenge was the altitude and getting in touch with the nomads. We were lucky enough to be graciously accepted into their communication and the time I Spent with these Families is Mirrored in My Collection. “

“The most beautiful part of pashmIs that whats started as a textile recipe from more of a spiritual journey on the Oral Histories of Nomadic Life. These are the stories that need to be shared outside the valley; Only then we can help preserve this ancient craft. ”